2016 was largely a successful year for menswear as a whole. Having extinguished the negative stigmas surrounding the male fashion industry, it is becoming more and more commonplace to see men taking an interest in the fashion industry. In order for an interest in menswear to be sustained however, one must consider the progression designers and brands are making and ask yourself; what next? I met up with AUB fashion student Ethan Lindsay and we discussed our highlights from upcoming 2017 collections, street wear’s acknowledgement from fashion powerhouses, as well as what Ethan has in the pipeline for 2017.
What do we want to see more of in 2017?
Alex: Hopefully more tech wear- with brands like Y-3, Acronym and Nikelab’s ACG line combining functionality and technology with streetwear, looking like a ninja hasn’t ever really looked so cool.
Ethan: Workwear will come through quite a lot. Brands like Dickies with clean cut shirts and panelling, back to more minimalistic fashion. It needs something to give it a boost, maybe a new breakthrough brand. Designers like Kiko Kostadinov are putting out great workwear. Also, a turn for better materials hopefully- people don’t appreciate that design and materials are just as valuable as the look, and are worth the investment.
What should be left in 2016?
A: Hopefully Yeezy will be gone, I’m so fed up of seeing a million shitty fakes when people don’t even know what the shoe is. Hopefully the Supreme hype will be left behind too: I respect their movements but I’m so fed up of people rinsing the hype for money, nobody can get what they want.
E: Layering can suck one. I’ve fully had enough of it. Chelsea boots and skinny jeans too, and distressed denim with denim jackets, sheeny bombers. Prices of clothes as well are too mad, there’s way too much hype.
My Top 3 for 2017:
Hundreds Red Letter SS17 – This special line of The Hundreds is one of the best takes on a baggy, old school kinda steeze. It’s full of quality materials, all at a reasonable price point. The use of all the subtle colours is probably my favourite part of this collection though: loads of washed out tones that are mixed in with a small dash of vibrancy makes the entire outfit bang.
Y-3 FW17 – I’ve always loved Yamamoto’s work, and his latest FW capsule is unbelievably hard. Keeping it monotone as usual, the techy vibe to Yohji’s style makes this collection perfect for this upcoming year. Hopefully it won’t be too expensive though, part of his principle is to make sure materials are of a high standard, which obviously warrants a higher cost.
BAPE SS17 – Lead by Nigo and his classic baggy style, the latest BAPE collection delivers as much colour as anticipated on loads of sick silhouettes. BAPE have also started putting together their trademark camo with some smarter styles and I’m definitely feeling how it’s looking.
Ethan’s Top 3 for 2017:
Vetements SS17 – Their new stuff is sick, and they’re doing mad collaborations with Champion, Carhartt and Alpha Industries. They’ve got a varied bunch of styles, and they’re using so many different and sick designers. The Canada Goose collaboration jacket is also unreal.
Cottweiler SS/FW17 – They used pastel tones, with these sick see through fabrics. Variations, design and materials all justify the pricing. They’ve got cultural references towards their London roots, with high-end tracksuits and sportswear. A throwback that’s associated with rave culture and their styles. They accessorize well, and have good attention to detail with cuffs, embroidery and fastenings.
A Cold Wall debut SS/FW17 – One guy did all of the designs for ACW, and reflects his influences into his work- the showroom for the debut was raw, with this row of chairs either side, minimal track, and dust sheets hanging about. He looked to his roots- being minimalist, clean, and using a range of diverse models. He put emphasis on text and materials, and accessorized well too, including more outerwear, scarfs, jackets and coats.
Is streetwear on the rise? Louis Vuitton x Supreme FW17
A: Considering the fact Supreme was founded in 1994 compared to Louis Vuitton’s 1854, I do respect the moves that the skate brand are making. Nonetheless, the entire collection is dead and creatively I think it’s hugely limited.
E: I fully hate it. The new Louey collaboration looks like something the bloke selling sunglasses on the beach on holiday would churn up.
After our largely positive look toward what 2017 will hold for menswear as a whole, I then moved on toward discussing Ethan’s own work and designs, and what’s in store for the future.
What have you already worked on in 2016 and where do you want to take that this year?
Hopefully I’ll be able to make this outerwear piece, I want to use more technical fabrics but I need to get a bit better with the assembly. Functionality is really really important for outerwear – the materials are expensive so it’s all got to be 100% accurate. I’d also like to do some basic pieces, like really thick cut tees made of proper high quality materials.
Who would your dream designer be for a debut collaboration?
Probably someone like Stone Island, just for their huge archive of materials and their technical abilities. Like you could say to them “I want a sand blasted painted coat” and they’d just do it. It would be a really high-quality garment and a sick collab.
Who is your favourite and/or most influential designer?
Raf Simons maybe? It’s a little bit cliché though haha. I love his influence mainly, not necessarily all his work. Also the Cottweiler designers Ben Cottrell and Matthew Dainty, their stuff is so easy to wear, it’s all amazing.
Where would you like to be in 10 years time?
I’d like to have a collection maybe, or a space to exhibit… but that’s a long way off. Quite a few people have released first collections around mid 20s, like Liam Hodges. You’ve just got to get on with it yourself and stay motivated I guess.