Fashion Month 2019 in Review

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The spring/summer 2020 collections have given fashion enthusiasts a lot to get excited about. Fashion month 2019 has produced some exciting shows exploring themes from sustainability to Picasso; with an increased focus on diversity and inclusiveness. From New York to London, Milan, then Paris, we break down the top three shows from each city.

Chromat Spring 2020 RTW 10 Year Anniversary Collection – NYFW

[Photo Credit: @hfconfess]

Speaking to Vogue backstage at the show, designer McCahren-Tran said of the historic 10 year celebration collection, “It’s about moving forward. The inspiration was very much about NASA and how its astronauts train in underwater facilities in Houston. It’s something we’ve barely scratched the surface of, and I’d love to explore further.” The brand is known for having a diverse line up in its shows, this year was no different, models of all ages, ethnicity, and backgrounds took to the runway in bold colours and styles, in what was truly a celebration of womanhood.

Savage X Fenty – NYFW

[Photo Credit: @caradelevinge, @savagexfenty, @ageofaquaria]

Rhianna brought her lingerie label to New York fashion week, enlisting the like of Normani, Halsey and A$AP Ferg to perform and some of the biggest names in fashion, The Hadid sisters, Cara Delevinge, Aquaria and Laverne Cox, to showcase her latest collection. Another show that made sure to showcase diversity, Savage X Fenty continued it’s narrative of empowerment and inclusivity. There was focus on bright bold colours – green, red, yellow, purple – as well as the tried and tested black pieces, each set with it’s own accessories to match. Lace, sheer, satin, bras, corsets and suspender belts, Rhianna’s collection had something for all tastes. Cameras and recording equipment were not permitted inside the venue as a deal had been signed with Amazon for the show to be featured exclusively on their streaming platform, Amazon Prime, which is available to watch now.

Marc Jacobs – NYFW

[Photo Credit: Vogue.com]

Marc Jacobs s/s 2020 collection was unlike most. Jacobs did not stick to a particular pallet, with a few splashes of  standout colour here and there, nor did he stick to a particular style or ‘look’ for his show, instead the collection seems to celebrate individuality, sporting a wide array of cuts, colours and styles. From simple pastel mini dresses to shimmering gold gowns, layered with a bright orange coat, Jacobs has made a a fun and engaging #ootd collection to suit everyone.

JW Anderson – LFW

[Photo Credit: Vogue.com]

A sophisticated collection from JW Anderson, draping his models in tunic style pieces, giving them an air of goddess as they walk the runway. Crystals are also a key feature of this collection with many pieces featuring jewelled bras, fitted like rope, and chunky belts that drop off one hip. A balance was found between innovation and tradition, particularly in the approach taken to the tailoring of the coats, with their contrasting lapels. Elegance is found in the blend of creativity and practicality.

Burberry – LFW

[Photo Credit: Vogue.com]

With an Italian designer at the head of a fashion house that is famous for celebrating British-ness, you may be inclined to think that Burberry is a brand to be concerned about, but now three years into the job Riccardo Tisci is going from strength to strength; really settling in to the brand and producing some beautifully tailored pieces.

Mary Katrantzou 

[Photo Credit: Vogue.com, @marykatrantzou]

While not technically present during LFW, Mary Katrantzou’s s/s 2020 had to be included in the line up of best shows at fashion month. In lieu of the London runways the show instead took place in the early days of October in Greece at the Temple of Poseidon. Taking inspiration from couture and showcasing the impact of Greek culture in Western civilisations, each dress in this collection had it’s own story and part of Greek history to celebrate. In an interview with Vogue, Katrantzou said, “I wanted to use ideas that were birthed here, in the 5th century before Christ when the temple was built, philosophy, theology, biology, astronomy, trigonometry.” Much has been talked about escapism and craftsmanship as a justification for high-skilled fashion, but Katranzou’s show was a joining of the other argument that concerns young designers: that fashion should also somehow serve the concerns of humanity and community (Mower, for Vogue.com).

Etro, ‘POSH PIRATES AND ARTISO GROUPIES’ – MFW

[Photo Credit: @etro, @davide.gallizio]

‘With a collection of eclectic prints and energetic colours, we wish to celebrate the fierce and passionate woman that #Etro is inspired by’ Etro writes on it’s Instagram about their s/s collection. Etro is a house that has ‘Haute hippie heritage chic’  in its DNA (Singer, Vogue.com) and this is a collection that screams festival girl and groupies of the ’60s. The finale of the show, however, brought a different vibe to the table. ‘The reimagination of a classic. The first-ever #Etro shirt was produced in the late 1960s by its founder Gimmo Etro, who inscribed his initials #GE01 on the shirt. The loose-fitting shirt is reissued in a unisex and customizable version…’ (Etro via Instagram). Pairing the new iconic striped shirt with paisley-print jeans, Etro has ushered in a comfortable and stylish must have combination for spring.

Moschino – MFW

[Photo Credit: Vogue.com]

Never a boring show at Moschino! Jeremy Scott’s s/s collection is an ode to Picasso and his muses. The models are treated almost as canvases to display some of Picasso’s famous works – Bella Hadid (pictured, centre) played the Harlequin and Kia Gerber (pictured, right) as The Girl With a Mandolin. Once Scott finds an idea he commits wholeheartedly to executing it perfectly – the designs all hand painted before being digitised for the final pieces. The care and attention to detail of this collection only heightens the incredible high art concept and creative execution. A truly flawless show.

Miu Miu – MFW

[Photo Credit: Vogue.com]

‘Creative freedom, creative expression, the feel of the hand, an accidental beauty. The Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2020 collection is a composition, a proposal of fashion as a process, and a dialogue. The dialogue is simultaneously between the wearer and her clothes, and in turn between their disparate elements, the paradoxical combination of the intentional and the impromptu, the serious and the playful.’ (Miu Miu via Instagram). In addition to this, Miu Miu had a focus on sustainability with its set, constructed entirely of OSB wood, which will go on to provide materials to creative professionals and students.

OFF-WHITE, “Meteor Shower” – PFW

[Photo Credit: @off___white]

‘A collection about that astral phenomenon in one sense and the strength of women in another.’ (Mower, Vogue.com). Streamlined shapes and a catering to the millennial love of ’90s minimalism, Virgil Abloh is sure to remain a favourite with streetwear fans. There was also a push for the importance of education and aspiration at the show. A recording of Dr. Mae C. Jemison, the first black woman to travel aboard the space shuttle Endeavour, from a question and answer session in 2018 about the importance of creativity and the arts played at the beginning of the show, a clear demonstration of Abloh’s keen interest in promoting these ideals to young people, linked with the theme space in the collection. Reach for the moon, even if you miss you’ll be among the stars.

Alexander McQueen – PFW

[Photo Credit: Vogue.com, @kiagerber]

Every piece purposeful, Alexander McQueen was a stand out show of fashion month. There was a massive focus on sustainability and community from designer Sarah Burton. ‘She upcycled lace, organza, and tulle from prior seasons. She recycled and reinvented old patterns from both her and Alexander McQueen’s history. She worked primarily with linen from Northern Ireland and linen made from flax grown at a particular female-owned farm—a farm that had until recently housed livestock. She created damasks with the sole remaining linen weaver in Ireland. She created lustrous, light-as-paper linens with the sole remaining beetler in Ireland (beetling is a process in which linen is covered in potato starch and then pounded on a wood machine for hours on end). She designed embroideries of vivid, blooming endangered flowers for a dress of silk faille and an ivory suit.’ (Singer, Vogue.com) Also inspired by Stitch School, the entire staff of McQueen sat together and chain stitched over a design drawn by Central Saint Martins students, on two of the dresses showcased in the show. A breathtaking collection with an outstanding positive message.

Noir, Kei Ninomiya – PFW

[Photo Credit: Vogue.com]

“It was a beginning. Actually I wanted to focus on creation… back to the basic mind of creation… I want to make something new and start something new.” Ninomiya said, speaking to Vogue. The hats were made of real moss, palms and ferns demonstrating the theme of creation, whilst also bringing to mind the very topical issue of the environment and sustainability. The shapes created around the models are hard to describe exactly, but they give an impression of growth and creating a new space; as if growing from the body itself – making the models almost cloud/foliage like. As we move towards a new decade could shows like this be an indication of things to come?